James Suckling 90 points – Some mealy, savory, almond and grassy elements here. The palate has a grassy array of lemons and candied melon. Gently grippy, pastry-like finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.
Jeb Dunnuck 92 points – From the Thalabert estate, which is mostly rolled stone terroirs, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Crozes Hermitage Mule Blanche checks in as equal parts Marsanne and Roussanne that was brought up in demi-muids (a small part new) and cement tanks. It offers a fresh, vibrant, slightly exotic style in its white flowers, lime blossom, and white peach aromas and flavors. Fresh, vibrant and pure, with a touch of Sauvignon character, it’s nevertheless beautifully concentrated, deep, and layered.
The big news at this benchmark estate is the loss of winemaker Jacques Desvernois to Domaine Guigal. At the time of my tasting with Caroline Frey, there was no replacement, so it will be interesting to see who comes on board. They will certainly have big shoes to fill. Nevertheless, the estate has been on an incredible roll, with their sensational 2015s last year, and now two strong vintages with their 2016s and 2017s. – Jeb Dunnuck, The 2016 and 2017 Northern Rhones, 12/20/2018